It’s the wobble and the cut

A couple of months ago, I had a go at making quince jelly, with assistance over the phone from my lovely mother. The batch I made wasn’t too bad at all, but not up to my mother’s standards. Then Mum and Dad came to stay a few weeks ago, so I bought some more quinces, and Mum and I made jelly together.

I learned so much from making jelly with my mother. She had given me clear instructions (‘though I managed to miss the bit about not squeezing the jelly bag), and I am an experienced cook, quite capable of following a recipe, and adjusting it as needed. As a child, I had hung around in the kitchen while Mum was making jelly, so somehow I knew how to fill and hang a jelly bag, and how to sterilise and seal hot jars of jelly (jam / chutney / pickles / whatever it was that Mum was making that day). I knew a lot. But, it was not enough.

The critical bit of knowledge that I could only gain through working with Mum was the “glassy” stage. Mum had told me to start testing the jelly once it started to look glassy. It turned out that what she meant by this was not what I had understood. I had seen the jelly getting glossier, but when Mum said “glassy,” what she meant that the jelly was thickening a little, and instead of looking liquid, it was starting to look a little heavier, and denser, a bit like the glass in old window panes. My parents live in a very old house, in New Zealand terms. It was built in 1863, and some of the panes of glass in the windows have been there since then. They are a bit thicker and heavier in appearance than modern glass, and there are bubbles in some of them. That’s about the look of the jelly when it reached the glassy stage, and it was time to begin testing it.

And then I watched as Mum tested the jelly. First she put a teaspoonful onto a chilled saucer, per her original instructions. After about 30 seconds or so, she drew a spoon through it to see how quickly it flowed back together. But then, she did something that she hadn’t told me about. She picked the saucer up, and tilted it this way and that, looking to see how viscous it was, how quickly, or slowly, it flowed down the saucer. And after that, she carefully dripped it back into the boiling pot, again looking to see how quickly drops formed. “Hmmm,” she said, with a thoughtful look on her face. “A bit longer yet.”

Eventually looking quite satisfied, she said, “That’s about right now.” At that stage the teaspoon line in the jelly held for a few seconds before the sides creeped back together, and it flowed begrudgingly down the saucer. I have a clear visual memory of what it looked like – still liquid, but thicker and heavy. But not too thick and heavy. There’s a moment when it’s just right. When I made my first batch of jelly, I boiled the mix for a bit too long, and although the jelly tastes good, it is a bit sticky.

Dad was watching the whole process too. Like my mother’s mother, his mother made pickles and jellies and jams too. Apparently, my Granny used to say that you should be able to cut a good jelly, and it should wobble. “You can tell a good jelly by the wobble and the cut.”

The jelly Mum and I made together is glorious. It’s beautifully clear, it wobbles, and it can be cut cleanly with knife. And it tastes superb.

quincejelly2

Jelly and jam and pickle making is a lovely skill to have. I like being able to make jars of preserves, some for our own use, some to use as house gifts when we go to someone’s home for a meal, some to give to friends. I don’t know that it’s an essential life skill, but it is certainly one that I want to pass on to my daughters, partly to preserve the old knowledge, partly to give them a gift that has come to me from my mother and my grandmothers. What I have found fascinating about this whole experience is just how much I needed to learn from the process of doing, rather than from recipe books. I suppose that with enough attempts, I could have learned to judge the right stage of the jelly mix, but watching my Mum do it made it all so much easier.

I have memory boxes for my daughters, and for me. The girls’ boxes have their school reports and pre-school photos and diaries, and copies of birth announcements and so on. My box has some of the girls’ baby clothes that I couldn’t bear to give away – a beautiful seersucker babydoll dress that Miss Ten wore when she was about three months, the yellow 0000 suits that the Miss Sevens wore in the first few days of their lives (those tiny suits looked very big on them), some small hats that my aunty sent for the babies, which we thought would never be worn, but they were just the right size for my newborn twins. These are my treasures, the tangible connections to the people I love most. My mother has written out a list of instructions and hints and tips for making jelly. I’ve kept her handwritten list of instructions, and put them in my memory box.

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10 responses to “It’s the wobble and the cut

  1. Dad always does the spoon and saucer thing too. You have inspired me to make him walk me through the whole process.

  2. I love this sense of knowledge and *care* being passed on. And ‘it’s the wobble and the cut’ is a great phrase, too.

  3. I absolutely loved this story and the associated notes from your mother. I enjoyed the image of you working well together from years of experience and your mother still filling that role and relating to you that way even though you are an adult with children of your own (“Don’t peel!”). Her personality totally comes through in her notes, and the love you two share permeates the story. These are beautiful posts. Thanks for sharing!

  4. How lovely, Deborah, to think of you and your Mum making the jelly together. I am not a domestic person at all, and no-one in my family made jams and preserves, really, not even my grandmother, so it’s not a skill I have. I wish I did, because I do love chutneys and relish. Having said that, I don’t think it’s what you make together that’s important, just that you were together whilst you were doing it.

  5. About all I know about jelly making is not to squeeze the bag, though it is tempting!
    I have moved on from jelly to quince paste which is more trendy and a batch lasts for years
    Did make grape jelly this year but need two goes to get the right set

  6. Thank you Deborah (and Deborah’s mum) for these lovely posts.
    If you get guavas in Adelaide, they make the most beautiful jelly – ruby red and divine.

  7. Lovely story. Thanks Deborah. My mother died suddenly in 1981, and this is the kind of thing that makes me realise how much I still miss her, even though I’m a granma myself now. I remember that she always put that saucer of cooling jam/jelly outside the back door, in a passageway that got no sun even in the middle of summer, balanced on a low fence. We used to love to lick that saucer in between dollops, and then wash it carefully before we handed back for the next test. I’ve just realised that may have been because we didn’t have a fridge to cool it in when I was very young. Or maybe she didn’t think of the fridge; the passageway was how she’d always done it.

  8. This is such a lovely post, and it took me right back to my own days of trundling round the kitchen after my ma saying Why and How and What for and Can I have a go. One drop at a time of cochineal on the end of a skewer; sift the icing sugar three times; don’t cut your fingers off while making radish roses; no more than four strokes when folding the flour into a sponge cake.

    Sigh.

  9. Thank you for the lovely comments, everyone. I know that I am very fortunate to still have my mother (‘though that has a lot to do with the very young age at which she and Dad got married, and the lack of contraceptives – she’s only 24 years older than me), and I am very fortunate to get on so well with her. She is one of my closest friends. I know that not all women are so lucky, in their mothers or in their daughters.

    PC – I’ve never heard any of those hints, but they all sound so plausible!

    M-H – Mum and I had little tasting dabbles at the saucer, even at our advanced ages. It makes me wonder what my grandmothers did to get cool saucers for testing, because they wouldn’t have had refrigeration either.

    Carol – my Dad’s parents had a magnificent guava tree, and Granny, and Mum, used to make the most magnificent jelly from the fruit.

    rayinnz – I’m tempted by quince paste, but I want to master jelly first. However I have just bought a quince tree to plant in my garden, so perhaps in a few years I will have enough fruit to try both.

    Jackie and Adele and Mikhela – yes, it’s the jelly, and also the great joy in doing with, and learning from, my mother.

    Stephen – I really do recommend the walk through. And the company. And the sharing.

  10. Deborah, I just finished making a batch of quince jelly (first ever) and just wanted some feed back on using bottled pectin.

    I did use it but the jelly seemed to take forever to jell.

    Maybe it was the quinces. not sure Never heard of them until my Hubby told me we had two trees on this property and both had some fruit. We got about 5 pounds of fruit strange looking stuff

    But I am willing to ry anything at least once.

    This jelly has more of an amber colour than a pink one is that right? I used your sugar ratio as it seemed better than the other I found on net they wanted about 2 cups sugar to one of fruit juice,

    I have made jams and jellies before but always used certo(pectin) and so I did use it in your recipe but it cooked and cooked before it showed any sign of setting.

    Is this a quince thing ?

    have a dish of the “scum” on the counter and the taste is wonderful and it has set

    can you tell me anything more about this fruit

    thanks

    Zuelema Pronounced Zoo–Lee–Ma

    love to hear from you