There’s been a slow conversation in comments on my earlier post referencing Jamie Oliver’s program about teaching the lower classes (damned straight I have used those words deliberately) how to cook. (Thanks again to Idiot / Savant for pointing the article out to his readers.) The “how to get people to cook” theme has been picked up by another friend, Che, at Object Dart. I blame you, he says. He argues that it’s not necessarily wealth that makes the difference, but the sort of person you are. Good food is readily available, it is comparatively cheap, in some cases the knowledge is lacking, but all too often, it’s not the knowledge that’s the problem, so much as the desire to do something different, to make an effort, to spend the time and energy to cook decent food. Che argues that it’s just as easy to be wealthy and unhealthy as it is to be poor and unhealthy. His solution – we need to create a society that cares more about food, that celebrates preparing food, that gets involved in the food chain. People need to be pressured to think about food, not just stuff it in their gobs. And that includes us.
Of course, there are people who are already doing their best to get us to think about food. Stephanie Alexander and Barbara Kingsolver spring to mind. (My mother doesn’t write a blog, so I can’t hat tip her, but I can tell you that she was the person who put both women’s books into my hands.)
But I feel uncomfortable with Che’s solution. And the reason is that I think that all it will do is add to the pressure on women. Cook, clean, knit, sew, look after the children, go out and earn an income, come home at night, under pressure because there are tasks at work still not done, but the kids must be collected from school, or after-school care, or day care, and then, turn around and cook a nutritious, tasty meal.
Believe me, I know all the tips for getting good meals on the table, fast, after a long day at work. I can stir fry, assemble, pan fry and quick bake with the best. I prepare menus a week at a time, I shop to that menu, I know what I need to pick up fresh on my way home. On the weekends, I make huge batches of bolognese, or stew, or lasagne, and freeze the extra portions. I get evening meals half prepared in the mornings, while I am grabbing some breakfast for myself (on a good day), and getting the school lunches organised. School lunches are a mission in themselves: I bake muffins and put them in the freezer, so that I can pull them out and pop one into each lunchbox, and I always have home baked biscuits on hand. Home baked, because then I know what my children are eating: it’s good, honest, butter and sugar that I have put in myself, and not a preservative in sight.
I have all the knowledge. I enjoy cooking, as you might have noticed from the food posts on this blog. Mr Strange Land and I make an effort to sit down with our daughters for our evening meal (our girls have been happily named the strangelings by Tigtog, which soubriquet I intend to use from now on when referring to the collective mass of our children). I don’t carry the sole responsibility for cooking in our household: Mr Strange Land cooks regularly, and cooks well, and cooks with enjoyment.
And yet, in all honesty, sometimes even with all the knowledge, even with all the organisation, even if we have all the ingredients available, sometimes when we get home, we are just too damned tired to cook. Especially when there’s a whole host of other activities that must be gotten through: reading and spelling with the Misses Seven, encouraging Miss Ten to do her homework and spend a little time on her piano practice, putting some washing through, supervising teeth brushing and baths (less onerous now than when they were younger, but nevertheless still requiring parental input), reading a story to the strangelings, tucking them into bed. All these activities are required for good parenting, too.
It ain’t so easy, even with all the knowledge, and all the resources. Even now when I am not in permanent or full time paid employment, it still takes more of an effort than you might realise: the problem that has no name can strike hard.
So what do I want, from Jamie Oliver, and other concerned foodists?
A little understanding. A little realising that preparing good food three times a day, every day, takes a huge amount of effort. A little thinking that adding one more social pressure to working parents may result in nothing more than parents who are even more stricken with the thought that somehow, they are not doing it right.
I agree with the basic point that Jamie Oliver and Che are making. We do need to make a serious effort to feed ourselves, and our children, good food. But please, recognise the effort that it takes.
Update: Stef adds to the conversation with Confessions of a former junk food junkie.


22 responses so far ↓
ikakitchenappliances // Thursday 9 October 2008 at 10:49 pm |
Rotherham is a very strange land as Jamie has shown us
M-H // Friday 10 October 2008 at 6:10 am |
Yes, it is hard work. But it’s work I enjoy, weirdly. I probably had failings as a mother (always had my head in a book!) but I did take the responsibility to feed the children seriously. It may have helped that I really like to eat good food, and dislike fatty or salty stuff myself. Although my family are gone I still like to make a ‘decent meal’ in the evening. And I honestly don’t understand why people see cooking a few veg or throwing a quick salad together as difficult when it really does taste so much better. And it’s cheaper.
Stephen // Friday 10 October 2008 at 6:16 am |
I do not believe that we can all have lovely healthy family dinners round the table unless collectively we look at policy solutions that make the food affordable and allow us time to spare.
I personally can cook really good meals quickly from few ingredients. But I got that way from long practise and bull-headedness. No one in these time who wasn’t slightly eccentric would do this (and in fact I endure a certain amount of teasing from my friends and family about my puritanical foodie ways).
Oliver’s show is just another way of blaming the victim. It’s part of the same propaganda that says that obesity is purely a matter of individual responsibility, and that the food and advertising industries, or car-centric cities, and all the other environmental/societal causes, can’t be blamed for it.
innercitygarden // Friday 10 October 2008 at 7:36 am |
Hear hear!
I love good food. I love cooking. I strongly believe that feeding myself and my kid good food is important. However, with all the other things that also have to happen, it’s really bloody hard work sometimes.
I think sometimes when people say “it doesn’t take that long” to prepare good food they forget that many people leave home before 8am and are lucky to get home before 7pm. There are all sorts of structural problems with out society that contribute to our bad eating habits. We work a long way from our homes (because we all want a backyard and peace and quiet), most of us live a long way from markets and rely on supermarkets (which are more expensive and less varied), we work long hours to pay for our backyards and that time takes away from our cooking, planning and eating time.
People often mention that good food is cheaper and wonder why The Great Unwashed don’t get with the program. In your list of strategies for maintaining good food standards in the face of the rush rush you mention several things that cost money many people don’t have, like good refrigeration, and lots of little plastic storage containers. Those things are easy enough to acquire and run when you’re on a decent income, and they save you money in the long run, but it’s a significant outlay for people on Centrelink payments. They also take up space, which also costs money. One of the reasons cooking well takes me a lot of time every day is that I have very limited freezer space. We can’t store several extra meals at a time, we have one or two. I can’t store batches of muffins, we have to eat them fresh. I can’t buy much in bulk either.
artandmylife // Friday 10 October 2008 at 10:43 am |
You know even as a stay at home mum, cooking can sometimes be a complete pain. I have oodles of time in comparison to working people so I am not going to complain but its not always easy or a joy. Some nights I’d love just to have a takeaway and put my feet up, so I can totally understand the temptation from busier and more stressed people.
What I want to know if you have a family with both partners working, why does the cooking usually fall to the woman and the responsibilty for the shopping, school lunches etc?
kate // Friday 10 October 2008 at 2:44 pm |
“why does the cooking usually fall to the woman and the responsibilty for the shopping, school lunches etc?”
Because we get sucked into “but I’m good at it and he’s not”, because “he works longer hours”, because “I think of it, and he doesn’t”, because “I want to feel like a good mother and still do the things my mother did”, and because blokes invariably know that if they leave it, it will still magically get done.
Nick Thompson // Friday 10 October 2008 at 10:30 pm |
I’m very conscious of the danger that this can all turn into bienpensant middle-class fingerwagging — especially because I’m pretty bienpensant myself and don’t have to cook for anyone but me.
But, there may be some context here. I don’t want to romanticise New Zealand too much, but there really is something desperate about British food culture, and I’m especially aware of it because I live in a tenement on a council estate in urban Scotland.
Perhaps things have changed since I left NZ eleven years ago, but I’ve lived with middle and working class Scots who literally never let vegetable matter pass their lips from month to month. There doesn’t, either, seem to be a kind of sane via media with British food, either. You’re either with the proletariat washing down pre-frozen fried-lard with Irn Bru or engaging with the middle classes in the most egregious foodie wankery. Nothing will do for tonight’s dinner but organic partridge testicles sourced from a charming little Provençale peasant I patronised while at my summer pied-à-terre in Marseille last year.
No-one seems to know how to do a passable meat and three veg.
Whether Jamie Oliver’s way is the right way to approach it, I don’t know. And I’m sure everything that’s been said about extra pressure this puts on women is right. But in my suburb, the average male life expectancy is 59. I don’t think that’s just the product of booze and cigarettes, and some kind of change in food-culture would probably not be such a bad thing.
Che Tibby // Saturday 11 October 2008 at 4:12 am |
not true at all. most all of our plastic containers are recycled from takeaways. why pay for something twice?
and if you can’t find space in the flat for half a dozen stacked containers, then… what the hell are filling your life with?
@deborah i’m not sure why you jumped from me saying, “we need to build a culture that appreciates and talks about food”, to “i’m doing all the work”.
my blog wasn’t about class, policy settings, or costs. my utopian vision is one where people just want to try to make better food for themselves first of all, and others as well. one where making and thinking about is valuable, so that people honestly want to at least try it.
it sounds like all the people in this comment chain are already doing that, but there are plenty of people of all incomes and education who quite simply do not value knowledge about food
Make Tea Not War // Saturday 11 October 2008 at 5:54 am |
I agree with Stephen. I can’t believe the only way to address these problems is by having everybody conform to a middle class aesthetic preference for growing food and cooking from scratch. We don’t insist moral virtue lies in building your own house or making your own clothes anymore so why should food be different. Mass production and take aways are not per se bad- the failure lies in the fact that what the market has to offer in this regard is expensive and not of the best nutritional value. I’m certainly not against people being educated about food but I think collective solutions rather than individual blaming, judging and hectoring in the manner of a modern day Mrs Pardiggle are worth exploring
Deborah // Saturday 11 October 2008 at 6:34 am |
I’m not jumping at you, Che – I agree with your basic point. My concern is that it isn’t actually all that easy, and that’s something that Jamie Oliver doesn’t seem to recognise. So yes, by all means emphasise good food, create a culture of care around food, but realise that it puts an awful lot more pressure on already pressured parents, and particularly mothers, because however much we might like to change things, the allocation of household work is still gendered.
Che Tibby // Saturday 11 October 2008 at 9:52 am |
i couldn’t disagree more. if you can’t take the time to at least learn what it is you’re putting into your own, or your childrens mouths, then you are a bad person.
heh.
well, maybe not a bad person, but you are negligent. if don’t have to be a rocket scientist to understand that an apple is better than a bag of chips. the problem is that it’s not seen as valuable to know that, so people (rich and poor) don’t make the effort
Che Tibby // Saturday 11 October 2008 at 9:54 am |
i’m really going to step up to the mark here and say, “so what?”
when the hell did they start handing out pamphlets that say life was meant to be easy?
Stephen // Saturday 11 October 2008 at 11:01 am |
when the hell did they start handing out pamphlets that say life was meant to be easy?
Shortly after Henry Ford built his first car factory. All those appliances aren’t going to sell themselves, you know.
As to being a bad person, I don’t agree with that, but if for argument’s sake I did, I would point out that bad and thoughtless people are a more or less constant chunk of society, so if we want them to behave better, we need to make good behaviour the path of least resistance.
Che Tibby // Saturday 11 October 2008 at 11:40 am |
i’m still wondering where my jet-pack is…
thing is, none of us wash clothes by hand anymore. i still have to clean the toilet with a bucket and cloth, but most other domestic chores of mechanised.
somehow though, i’ve filled up all the spaces created by labour-saving devices in my life with ’stuff’.
artandmylife // Saturday 11 October 2008 at 3:32 pm |
I was trying to think this week what appliance I would not want to live without and my washing machine would be right up there. I could cope with a wringer type but a copper? I’d rather not.
Oh and about life being hard – we’ve somehow insulated ourselves from hard/pain mostly these days. Which makes telling people that some things just are hard very difficult. (eg childbirth)
Deborah // Saturday 11 October 2008 at 5:08 pm |
Yes, the washing machine would be the very last thing to go from my house, and that includes the oven and the hob. I can cook on an open fire and in a camp oven if necessary, but the sheer physical labour involved in washing clothes by hand would be exhausting.
Che Tibby // Sunday 12 October 2008 at 3:57 am |
and despite my little outburst, i still think men should do more of the household work.
the lazy bastards they are.
georgedarroch // Sunday 12 October 2008 at 4:25 pm |
“don’t have to be a rocket scientist to understand that an apple is better than a bag of chips. the problem is that it’s not seen as valuable to know that”
Just so long as people have access to enough income/resources that fresh fruit is within reach. A lot of poor neighbourhoods in NZ and other developed countries are “food deserts”, where little fresh food is available, and where it is found is at prices higher relative to other food. And it often looks and tastes pretty unappealing.
Supermarkets have killed the grocers, and we’re all worse off. I’m lucky to have a farmers run outlet in the neighbourhood, with fresh from the ground produce at reasonable prices, but most people have to pay more to eat worse.
I’m all for personal responsibility, and removing the barriers to access.
Personally, I think it’s criminal that houses don’t come with fruit trees and herb gardens.
littlegemsession // Wednesday 15 October 2008 at 8:33 am |
Hmmm, yes, good post. I find that just the weekly PLANNING of meals is what I really get tired of. Mr SYW cooks on the weekends and I just don’t want to be asked “What shall I cook?” Its hard cooking interesting meals that the whole family will eat AND be healthy AND not go insane
I get sick of mothers being made to feel guilty about every blimmin move they make.
My washing maching died last week and MissSYW wet the bed, I almost cried.
littlegemsession // Wednesday 15 October 2008 at 8:35 am |
PS I feel so sad when I hear stories about people buying Coke to pour on their kids cereal because its cheaper than milk, mind you is that just an urban myth spread by ACT?
Daleaway // Wednesday 15 October 2008 at 10:41 am |
I’ve just lived without an oven for 15 months while waiting for a total kitchen rebuild. It’s astonishing what you can achieve with a microwave, an electric frypan, and an old infra-red cooker (loosely speaking, an early 1960s version of the microwave) that Mum found in the basement. Having good if rather ancient microwave cookbooks was a great help. We even managed a delicious pav in the infra-red, though it was the soft kind. We ended up missing the oven less than we expected.
But god forbid the electric mini-chopper and all-purpose whizzerator should break down! That is one fabulous kitchen gadget that gets used daily, and so does the Sodastream fizzy drink maker to which we add cordial made from our own grapes.
artandmylife // Wednesday 15 October 2008 at 12:00 pm |
Littlegemsession – I’ve personally seen a toddler with coke in a baby bottle rather than milk or juice, but not on cereal